moderne Zeiten: Galadriel 6c+ - Kirchlispitzen, Rätikon

This year I have been two times in Rätikon at Partnun to climb Abraxas and Kathedrale, but never in Grüscher Älpli. Famous for hard multipitch routes like Silbergeier, WoGü and Deja, most climbers dream of climbing on the Kirchlispitzen. Since the weather was promising in November, dry and warm, I played with the thought of trying Galadriel. The weekend before I was already there with Ire and knew that the road is still driveable, so the climb would be perfect with sunny weather. The sunny weekend came and with Viktor, we drove to Grüscher Älpli on Friday night.


Approach

From Grüscher Älpli you can already see the famous Kirchlispitzen. From there we follow  20 minutes until the last flat area, where a hiking trail crosses the river at the turn of the street. We followed the hiking trail up until the first yellow sign, and took a small path to the wall. The start of the route is easily located with the photo in Extrem Ost. One hour from Grüscher Älpli. There were also cars parking in the first and second flat area after Grüscher Älpli.

We started from Grüscher Älpli at 7.30 am and arrived the base of the wall around 8.30, where 5min earlier the sun arrived at our wall. Perfect timing.

Small path to the wall. Galdriel starts at the left end of the shade.


1L 6b

Perfect warmup pitch. It starts with good holds and easy climbing and becomes a 6b after the first half. Nice compact Rätikon rock with small holds. The pitch ends on a big grassy ledge.
Easy start in L1.



2L 6b+

The second pitch has a nontrivial start to the first bolt. The crack looks better than it is at the begining. It gets deeper and better at the height of the first bolt. The crux starts afterwards at the little overhang. You pull on a small undercling, step high and reach over to the right to a good hold. Afterwards keep left on the slab, not straight where an old bolt was, and climb behind the corner. Then easy climbing just before the anchor, where some concentration is necessary, but nothing strenuous.
Bouldery start in L2.



3L 6c

This pitch felt easier than 6c for us, maybe 6b+? The rock always offers a good hold. Sometimes climbed a bit right of the bolts. With good footwork and technique no problem for us.
Typical Rätikon rock in L3.


 

4L 6a

Easier pitch that connects the lower part to the steep head wall. Some concentration is nevertheless needed, since some loose blocks lie around. Viktor skips a bolt ;)
Easy climbing in L4.


 

5L 6b

Long pitch on Rätikon slabs. Never to hard, but some technique is needed.

6L 6b+

Now the steep part of the wall starts. Climbed left to the first bolt, right is also possible but much harder as we found out. After the first bolt you have to step high and reach to a bad side pull, where you can clip the next bolt. Then a few easy meters before the crux. The crux consists of a slabby traverse under tension to a good side undercling. First seems impossible, standing on nothing, but we both sent it with some Beat motivation.

Before the crux in L6.

7L 6c

One of the harder pitches with unnecessary many bolts. The first crack part is amazing, lay backing on such jugs was sick! Or should I have jammed it ? Then climbed left where the holds get smaller. Before the overhang starts the crux. Underclinging, high step and reaching to the jug behind the roof and its done. Easy traverse to the anchor. The number of bolts in this pitch is significantly higher than in L8. Maybe two different strong climbers bolted it on lead.

Before the crux with the small overhang in L7.


 

8L 6c+


Hard start in L8




Crux pitch.  Hard start with bad feet and small crimps. After clipping the first bolt, reach to a small crimp on a white rock patch, step higher and reach to the left where a big jugs is hidden. The door opens, but doable. Clipped from this position. Afterwards really good climbing on compact limestone, somehow there is always a good hold before it gets to difficult. The crux of this pitch is at the end, where some body tension and finger strength is required. The second to last bolt can be clipped from an good undercling, before the crux starts and finishes at the end. Small crimps and bad feet follow afterwards. Bad sidepulls after the last bolt before the final good jugs. Requires some concentrations. Both onsighted it!! Viktor sent it on lead with some rope drag from my side, sorry!

Crux before the anchor in L8.

9L 6b

Slabby traverse, the first part is not so trivial, since there is not much to hold on to. Some concentration and good foot work is required. Then it gets easier and the holds larger. I traversed until the grassy part and there went up to the anchor, seems easier. Almost missed the anchor and already clipped the first bolt of L10.


10L 6c

Last hard pitch. We clipped the first bolt, climbed down at the grass section and then started the traverse. At bolt height the wall is just blank. The traverse to the second bolt is ok. Then a hard traverse move to a small side crimp on a flake and only bad feet. Needed Beat and Adam screaming to keep it together. I found an ok side pull afterwards and put my feet more to the right. The rest of the pitch is never to hard, but needs some concentration not to slip on this compact limestone. The last puzzle is just before the anchor, which made me nervous, since I onsighted/flashed everything up to this point. Staying on the left side of the bolts luckily worked out.

Viktor enjoying the traverse in L10.


And another photo of L8.

Perfect compact limestone after the traverse in L10.

11L 5b

Summit pitch with easy climbing. First part is a bit steep, but there is always a good jug. The anchor is behind the left corner after the last bolt. 

 

Descent

Two times abseil to the left. Then from the end of L8 on the route. With 
2x50m one can skip a few pitches. 
First abseil not on the route.



 Summary

Galadriel 6c+ (6b obl.) 11 pitches 370m V. Luck, B. Bardill, M. Luginbuehl, A. Lietha 1994 xxxx/***

 5. Kirchlispitze (start at 2120masl) south facing 

Gear

2x50m ropes, 11 quickdraws, gear for rapelling 


One of the classics in Rätikon at this grade. Happy to onsighted this juwel. The protection is most of the times very good, only in L8 one has to climb sometimes between the bolts. Proud to finally introduce Viktor to Rätikon with Galadriel and hope that this will not be the last one together. Whats next? ;)

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