Langstrasse 6a+ with XL finish - Schafbergwand, Wildhaus

After a long series of bad weekend weather in Switzerland, we finally got a good window and Ire was motivated to try the famous Langstrasse 6a+ at Schafbergwand. We did not expect that this day will be so close to a good party at the real Langstrasse in Zurich.

Approach 

Ire showing the path to the wall after Gamplüt.



We parked at Parkplatz Gamplüt and took the hiking trail to Gamplüt. Keep right up the hill and enter the forest on a small path in a right turn. Follow the small path to the wall, marked by stone men. At the wall take the ramp with two bolts and red marks up to the start. This part is expo and a fall could be fatal, but can be belayed on the bolts if necessary. 1 hour from parking.

Sketchy end of the approach, can be belayed.



Our route of today is at the left part of the wall. The start with the big dihedral can not be missed. There was already a  party in the first pitch, so we used the time to fill up our tanks with water, fresh made climbing bread  (thanks!) and of course a cigarette for Ire. Unfortunately Ire lost her climbing jacket while gearing up, first coincidence of our Langstrasse party :D


L1 6a 

First pitch is a 40m monster crack which is to wide to climb it as a crack and to narrow to climb inside. Felt hard for 6a, definitely not our climbing style. The footholds are never good and a bit slippery so got pumped. 

Monster crack in L1.



At the middle of the route the party before already started abseiling which seemed weird with this perfect weather. Only the second climber informed me, that his partner got sick at the first anchor and throw up, so they abseiled down. We hope they got back home safe! A bit unsure what to expect, I climbed to the anchor and clipped myself in while trying to avoid the small lake right to the anchor. The returning odors reminded us again of the real Langstrasse :D.

 

L2 5c

The second pitch suffers at the beginning a bit from bad rock and vegetation, but gets really good at the end, although a bit brittle. The first bolt seems far, but the climbing is relatively easy. The first and second dihedral offer nice climbing with a bit spaced bolts which can be improved with middle sized cams (BD #0.5-1). At the end of the second dihedral keep right, where the anchor is hidden at the ledge. I had a small rope mess while belaying Ire, thanks for the help to the friendly party after us!

Ire at the end of L2.



L3 6a 

Now the typical Schafberg slabs start. This pitch creates a reverse C shape.  The climbing is not so trivial, small sideholds on the water grooves and slabs for the feet create a good pump.

Slab climbing and water grooves in L3.


L4 6a? 

This pitch starts with a hard slab boulder problem and then traverses right to and old cordelet in a thread, which should be replaced. Put a small cam to improve it. Afterwards continue straight up to big jug sized holds. Before the anchor found a solid thread to put a sling through. The feeling arose that this might be the wrong street. But the climbing was nice, so we continued.

Big jugs at the end of L4.

 

L5 6a

Best pitch so far. Really cool climbing on water grooves, that sometimes is not so trivial. At the anchor, which was not the ledge of Langstrasse, we realized that we were not on track.  Since it was already late we didn't traverse left to the Langstrasse anchor and abseiled down in 5 times with 2x50m ropes. Unfortunately we could not climb the last pitch of Langstrasse, which should be the best one.

Water grooves in L5.

 

My research afterwards suggests that we climbed the last two pitches of the route XL (6c+). Similar to a party night at Langstrasse, we got lost and ended up in the wrong street but nonethelesss had a good climb.

 

Summary 

Langstrasse 6a+ (5c+ obl.)  6 pitches 200m Richard Ott und Martin Wiesmann 1984  xxx/****

XL 6c+ (6b obl.) 6 pitches, 240m  Marcel Dettling 2012/2014

Gear: 12 quickdraws, 2x50m, BD Cams #0.4-1, slings/cordelets for threads

The first pitch is definitely unique and should not be missed, climbing on the slabs requires good foot work, and one should be comfortable also climbing 6a above the last bolt. Unfortunately, we did not climb the real last pitch of Langstrasse but anyway had a fun Langstrasse coincidences climbing day! 


 

 

 




 

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